The minimum payment is the smallest amount your card issuer will accept that month to keep your account in good standing. It's set by a formula on your card agreement and is almost always far less than what you'd need to pay to clear the balance in a reasonable time.
Most issuers use one of four methods: a flat percentage of your balance (often 1%–3%), the month's interest plus 1% of principal and fees, a fixed dollar floor (usually $25–$35), or your full balance if it's below the floor. Your cardholder agreement spells out the exact formula.
Because most formulas are tied to your balance and interest. As you pay down the balance, the minimum often shrinks too — which is why payoff can feel like it never ends. New purchases, fees, and rate changes can also push the minimum back up.
Paying at least the minimum on time protects your payment history, the biggest factor in your FICO score. But carrying a high balance month after month keeps your credit utilization high, which can drag your score down even if every payment lands on time.
For most cards, paying only the minimum stretches payoff to 15–30 years and roughly doubles or triples what you originally owed. Run your own numbers above — the result is usually shocking.
When your APR is high and the minimum is low, the interest charge eats up most of the payment before anything reaches the principal. That's the core mechanic of the minimum payment trap. Adding even $25 a month routes more dollars to principal and shortens payoff dramatically.
Use the target-payoff field above to see the exact monthly payment for 12, 24, or 36 months. Even a small bump above the minimum — $25 to $100 — typically cuts months or years off your payoff and saves hundreds in interest.
Adding new charges while paying the minimum can stall or reverse your payoff entirely. The calculator's 'still using the card' toggle shows what happens — for most people the realistic next step is to stop adding new charges until the balance is back under control.
It's printed in your cardholder agreement, usually in a section called 'Minimum Payment' or 'How Your Minimum Payment Is Calculated.' You can also find it on your statement and on the issuer's website. If you can't find it, the 'I don't know my formula' option above uses a realistic default.
Pay at least the minimum on every card to protect your payment history, then throw every extra dollar at one target. Two proven orders: avalanche (highest APR first, cheapest in interest) or snowball (smallest balance first, fastest psychological win). Pick the one you'll actually stick with for 12+ months.
It doesn't change the minimum your issuer requires, but it does lower your average daily balance — which is what interest is calculated on. Splitting one $200 payment into two $100 payments mid-cycle can shave a few dollars of interest per month and a few months off total payoff.
Usually no. Closing a paid-off card shrinks your total available credit, which raises your utilization on every other card and can drop your score 10–40 points. Keep it open with a small recurring charge on autopay unless the annual fee is hurting you.
Yes, and it works more often than people think. Call the number on the back of the card, say 'I'm trying to pay this down faster — can you lower my APR?' and reference your on-time history. A 3–5 point drop is common and routes hundreds more dollars to principal over a payoff.
The minimum is the smallest amount that keeps the account current. The statement balance is everything you charged last cycle. Paying the full statement balance every month means zero interest. Paying only the minimum means the rest gets charged interest immediately on next month's statement.
If you can pay the full balance inside the 0% window (usually 12–21 months) and stop using the old card, yes — every dollar goes to principal. If you can't, you pay a 3–5% transfer fee plus the regular APR kicks in on whatever's left. Run both scenarios in the calculator before you apply.
Late fee up to $41, possible penalty APR around 29.99%, and once the payment is 30+ days late it hits your credit report and can drop your score 60–110 points. Pay it the moment you notice, then call the issuer and ask for a one-time fee waiver — first-time waivers are routinely granted.
Store cards usually carry higher APRs (often 28–32%) and a similar 1–3% minimum formula, so the payoff trap is sharper. Pay them off first when you can — the same minimum payment that takes 22 years on a 24% APR card can take 28+ years on a 30% APR store card.